General Billy Mitchell was predicting the future of aerial warfare when a restaurant opened near the airfield that would bear his name. Under different names and different owners, the place now called Robert's has been on the corner of Howell and Bolivar avenues for as long as anyone can remember. It's been in the same hands for 30 years and has lately expanded beyond its soup-and-sandwich menu toward more dinner entrees.
Nowadays Robert's has daily specials, and one of the most popular is that Milwaukee favorite, the Friday fish fry ($8.95). Three pieces of quality cod are served in a light batter with crinkle-cut fries, dark rye bread, chunky homemade coleslaw and an unusually flavorful tartar sauce. A daily soup special is always available; one of the choices might be a superb and mildly spicy creamy chicken dumpling, loaded with chicken pieces, tiny dumplings and carrots ($3 per cup).
Robert's is especially proud of its "Brooosted" chicken special (three pieces for $8.95). By whatever process, the meat is tender enough to cut with a spoon and is wrapped in a flavorful batter any Kentucky colonel could envy. Like the fish fry, it comes with slaw, dark rye bread and potatoes, either french fries or hearty mashed potatoes with gravy.
Walking into Robert's is a delightful step back in time to an Old Milwaukee of dark interiors with leaded-diamond-paned windows, wood planks, glazed brick floors and rows of Black Forest beer steins. Carved Brothers Grimm chairs are arranged around heavy wooden tables; the Old World feel is buttressed by tall wainscoting made of nut-brown gumwood. The antique bar is busy at noontime with customers who haven't abandoned the Milwaukee custom of a beer with lunch. There is a cozy room off to the side of the main dining room and a recessed wall lined with a curving Deco-style leather couch.
Robert's is a local landmark serving comfort food in a comfortable atmosphere during a time of uncertainty.
Robert's
4301 S. Howell Ave.
(414) 747-9114
$$
Credit Cards: All major
Smoking: At the bar
Handicap Access: Yes
A Barfly
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